It’s cool and sunny. We had the early morning swim with the tide right in. Water temperature perfect. Then there was just enough time for breakfast and a look around town. Now on the bus back to Adelaide.
Author Archive
Early morning in Moonta
17 December 2023Around the Copper Triangle
16 December 2023Today was dedicated to Copper Triangle exploration so we set out after breakfast.
Port Broughton to Moonta – water and navigation errors
15 December 2023
We were caught short of water yesterday so bought a bottle of water from the Snowtown IGA for $1.15. While eating curry at the roadhouse we thought it best to get another bottle but the price there was over $5, so back to the shop again. We ran low before reaching Port Broughton and filled up at a farm house. This morning Ian’s bidon could not be found, and once on the road, too far to turn back, he remembered that the extra bottle was left behind, chilling in the fridge. We topped up from a garden tap in Tickera and made it to Wallaroo without expiring from thirst.
Gravel roads – Clare to Port Broughton
14 December 2023
Melrose to Port Germein via the Bridle Track
9 June 2023We had revised our finishing point in order to be sure of catching the bus, so we set off for Port Germein, saving about an hour of cycling time. It was cold and overcast as we left Melrose.
Having read reports of Bridle Track Road, we decided to test it out. It begins with several kilometres of an undulating rutted surface, with a short unrideable incline and several gates.
There was low cloud around that obscured the view out to the gulf – on a clear day the reveal would be impressive.
The descent, when we got to it, was not fast riding. There were some sections that were too rough and steep to ride. I took a spill on a loose rocky section and grazed my knees. My advice to anyone thinking of driving either up or down is Don’t Do It! It would be terrifying. For bike riders, I say do it, but don’t fall off!
Bridle Track Road meets Germein Gorge Road as it emerges on to the coastal plain and from here it was a quick run into Port Germein – no head wind! I cleaned up my knees and we had coffee and scones (not best ever but best available) at the Pier Cafe.
The Stateliner bus stops on the highway to pick up Port Germein passengers, so we took off the panniers and front wheels and waited while large trucks and cars passed at high speed. Doesn’t seem like the safest place for this, but we managed to board without a disaster occurring.
Today we rode 35km, ascended 250m and descended 640m. Map coming later
Peterborough to Orroroo – didn’t get wet!
7 June 2023Weather forecasts of rain motivated me to enquire in advance about road conditions. A man at the District Council of Orroroo Carrieton warned against taking the road through Yatina Gorge. However it’s usually best to make your own judgement as local knowledge is sometimes not based on relevant experience.
We had been concerned about the possibility of inclement conditions but need not have worried. It rained overnight in Peterborough but by morning it had stopped and it looked ok to go on with our plans. As we left town we could see sun shining on the Yongala silos and on Mount Ngadjuri in the far distance
Yatina Road was damp but not sticking to our tyres so we reached what remains of Yatina and admired the old hotel.
It is surprising to come across this building in such an isolated place. It seems to be structurally not too bad but needs a good scrub up. Sadly there are no customers around so it will probably continue to deteriorate.
Gorge Road had a sign saying Dry weather road only, a warning that sometimes needs to be taken seriously. We thought the road surface was fine and so it was. This was a perfect scenic route through Yatina Gorge, gradually climbing back into agricultural land and up to Magnetic Hill.
A sticky mud experience commenced at the turnoff to this somewhat over-hyped attraction. Fortunately not enough adhered to prevent our continuation. A sign warned us of possible parking problems and large numbers of people, but we were the only ones there. All we can say is that the phenomenon does not apply to bicycles – we didn’t roll uphill at all.
A descent took us to a long straight road on the eastern flank of the Narien Range, with headwind again all the way to Orroroo. To the east was the Depot Hill Range with cloud on top. Depot Hill, one of South Australia’s little known peaks, is really a proper mountain as it is higher than Mount Lofty.
Orroroo has everything we could want except maybe a bakery. It now has three cafes, one of which sells pretty good pies. The caravan park cabin is spotless (unlike the Railway Hotel). We paid a visit to the Giant Gum Tree and did a circuit around town.
Today we did 50km and climbed only 200m.
Laura to Peterborough with a headwind
6 June 2023We started out with blue skies and mild temperature on the first stage of today’s ride, 20km from Laura to Appila. We had expansive views across paddocks in all directions with occasional glimpses of Mount Remarkable to the north west.
I came close to getting a photo of a fox but it spotted me, took off at high speed and ran away across a huge paddock. Appila Lutheran Church is on an isolated intersection between Appila and Wirrabara, so we admired the sign but didn’t go there.
We crossed Pine Creek, a large waterway (dry) with big reedbeds. As we approached I spotted the fox again, sprinting towards it and disappearing into trees in the creekbed. This creek flows south and joins the Rocky River at Laura.
A little further along the road at Almond Tree Corner, the Ukrainian flag was flying. The wind was picking up by this time.
Appila still has a few residents but the Yarrowie Hotel hasn’t been serving beer to them or anyone else for some time.
We rode on to Hornsdale, no longer a settlement, but home to the Big Battery and a huge windfarm. Near here we had a brief tailwind before changing direction and getting the headwind back.
A long climb ensued along the Ngadjuri Mail Track, taking us up and over the Narien Range, past the wind turbines and on to the ridge where the remnants of a dry stone wall can be seen.
From the summit there was a huge vista to the west from The Bluff to Mount Remarkable and Mount Brown. To the east we could see silos in the distance that we thought were at Peterborough. Turned out they were at Yongala. The descent was steep and rocky. On the way down we topped up our water bottles from a farmhouse tank.
Mannanarie was our lunch stop. It consists of an institute hall that is still in use and the ruins of a Methodist church. While we were there, a farmer came by in his ute to check us out. He runs sheep and grows wheat, barley and canola nearby. He said that the piano was stolen out of the hall not so long ago. Another one has been donated, but security is a problem in an isolated location like this.
Getting closer to Peterborough, we were welcomed by this lurid sign! The railway line was visible from the road with a viaduct crossing a dry watercourse. Ian wanted to wait to see if a train came along – we should have because not far out of Yongala the Indian Pacific went past at a fast speed.
Yongala is a small town 10km from Peterborough. It has what must have been a fine main street with lots of small shops. It is now devoid of commerce except for the hotel which is for sale.
We rolled into Peterborough at about 3pm, feeling the effects of riding into the wind for several hours. The civic buildings looked splendid in the afternoon sun. We dined at the Steamtown Dine In, attached to the petrol station, but serving respectable curries. The weather forecast for tomorrow is not the best for us. Hope we can make it to Orroroo!
We rode 65km and climbed over 500m.
Port Pirie to Laura
5 June 2023We are on a 5-day Mid North tour, starting and finishing in Port Pirie, and going to Laura, Peterborough, Orroroo and Melrose. The weather forecast is pretty good except for Wednesday 7 June 2023, which is expected to be quite rainy.
First stop after arriving in Port Pirie was the bakery which asserts: ‘We are not just a bakery. We are a bakery cafe.’ A local gentleman with a scrubby beard wished us well for our travels. That was nice of him! The woman in the bakery cheerfully packaged up our salad rolls after having served them up on plates due to an ordering oversight.
We took Railway Terrace, a low traffic road out of Port Pirie, heading for Warnertown on the Princes Highway. The temperature was mild enough for short sleeves. Low cloud was sitting on The Bluff and, to the north, we could see rain heading our way.
Everyone goes through Warnertown but most don’t take much notice. It has a hotel that’s doing good business but the Institute needs some renovation. Its dilapidated condition adds historic atmosphere though. Zoom in to see the huge crack in the main front wall!
Collaby Hill Road ascends the southern end of the range of which The Bluff is the highest point at over 700m. Before commencing the climb we sheltered from imminent rain in a derelict shed and ate our salad rolls, already a bit soggy. The ascent is steep, requiring a granny gear grind, but it doesn’t last long. The rain turned out to be fine misty drizzle, not even enough for raincoats.
After reaching the top we joined a section of the Heysen Trail that I walked last year. It follows Collaby Hill Road through mainly cleared sheep farms, then descends into the more forested Beetaloo Valley.
Quite a few years ago we ended up at the spot below after a Beetaloo Reservoir jaunt. Today we headed towards Laura, via the Laura Lookout where there is a nice view to the east, a table with bench seats and a shelter. A farmer was noisily seeding nearby on his huge tractor.
A downhill run followed into Laura. With the sun behind us and dark clouds to the east, an intensely bright rainbow appeared, inspiring us to stop for artistic photos.
Laura has many historic buildings including the former Masonic Hall that has interesting runic symbols on the facade above the door.
When you stay at the Laura Caravan Park, you get scones with jam and cream. This is pretty popular and they now have a great reputation resulting from it! We dined at the North Laura Hotel which has had a recent renovation and looks very smart. From my observation it is fine to wear ugg boots, thongs and hi-viz in the dining room.
We did 50km and climbed about 530m.
Seven sinkholes
7 December 2022Today we have travelled from Mount Gambier to Port MacDonnell, normally a distance of about 25km. For us it was quite a bit longer because of all the sinkholes we had to visit. We began with another viewing of the Blue Lake (not a sinkhole) after leaving our lodgings in which we neither smoked nor trashed anything.
Kilsby Sinkhole was the first on the itinerary, but it is on private property and stern signs warned us off. You can visit only on official diving tours, or for gin parties. I phoned to ask if we could go in just to look but were politely refused
Sinkhole #2 was an unnamed shallow one with grass and weeds growing in it. But #3 and #4 were more impressive – The Sisters, a pair of adjacent sinkholes that are frequented by cave divers.
Along Sisters Road we passed an extensive area of exposed limestone pavement – you can see it on Google maps as pasture doesn’t grow there.
We then took a bumpy track to the Little Blue Lake, a popular tourist spot. I had a swim – water temperature very pleasant.
Gouldens Sinkhole was next (#6), another cave diving location not far from Little Blue Lake. They all have signs indicating that diving permits and qualifications are essential.
Next stop was Mount Schank where we climbed up to the top of the crater, just in time to observe interesting weather approaching from the west. We retreated to the picnic shelter for lunch and a cup of tea while we waited out some drizzle and a shower of rain. The shelter offers an electric BBQ but no table or benches, just brick paving to sit on.
We departed but had to shelter again from a gusty squall at the Mount Schank Tennis Club (table and bench available here!) The temperature dropped, the wind increased, more rain fell, so we abandoned the scenic route and took the main road to Allendale East where we found Sinkhole #7, aka Allendale East Cave, which is right in the middle of the highway. Perhaps the smallest memorial arch in Australia is just nearby – needs a bit of retouching.
We are now in Port Macdonnell where it is freezing and blowing a gale. We met a cyclist, Antony (Irish of accent but a resident of Stockholm), at the Victoria Hotel. He has ridden from Perth and is heading to Melbourne.
Bus trip to Mount Gambier
6 December 2022We are beginning a 7 day bike trip from Mount Gambier (my birthplace) to Ararat, following the Glenelg River from sea (Nelson, Victoria) to source (near the Chimney Pots in the southern Grampians). The bike riding starts tomorrow, Wednesday.
Today we took the bus from Adelaide to Mount Gambier. We had booked online, but were asked us to show our Seniors Cards, presumably because our youthful appearance raised doubts that we were eligible for them.
Sights along the Coorong – 3 emus strolling along, dozens of pelicans circling around high up, wedge tailed eagle flying along beside the bus, Coorong, salt lakes and swamps all holding plenty of water.
We are staying in Macs Hotel (old with large balcony), where we have stayed before a number of times. On booking in, it was explained to me that there is no smoking inside and if we trash the room we will be required to pay for the damage. I meekly signed my agreement to this. Probably under new management.
The Blue Lake is blue, the mount looks a bit ragged with burnt trees along the skyline after the fire last year. Here are a few sights around town.
From Marne Mouth to home
2 October 2022I made an early start in the cold of dawn. I wished I’d brought gloves, but had I done so I wouldn’t have left them on for long. I rode along Cliff View Drive which follows the Murray to Walker Flat, giving good views of the river.
Then I turned on to Angas Valley Road, the main road to Mount Pleasant, and followed this for about 17 km before turning off on to the gravel again – Pellaring Flat Road, Noske Road. Most of the roads in this area have German names – Egel, Strauss, Schultz, Schroeder, Schmaal – reflecting the presence of the early European settlers from Germany who established farms and built little Lutheran churches.
Quast Road near Punthari winds through a small area of mallee woodland, crossing Saunders Creek, a smaller version of the Marne, which flows east out of the hills, through Saunders Gorge and then to the Murray at Pellaring Flat. Next time I will go through Lenger Reserve. a National Trust Reserve on Springs Road.
I could see the silos at Palmer to the south as I approached the hills. At Milendella the Zion Evangelical Lutheran Church provided a shady resting place for a snack before commencing the climb up off the plain.
I took Gap Road which ascends steeply to begin with, then follows the Milendella Creek through Rathjen Gap, a dramatic opening between the hills – green on one side and rugged with rocky outcrops and Xanthorrhoeas on the other. I could hear a trickle of water flowing in the creek below.
This is the last photo as, after that, I ran out of energy for photography. On reaching Davenport Road there remained substantial climbing to be done, with more to follow on the last 10 km along Angas Valley Road to Mount Pleasant. I patronised the bakery again, then had a sleep for half an hour in a park before being woken up by a loud motorbike. Then I rode home along the Torrens Valley Road and the Gorge Road with way too many speeding motorcyclists, as well as 4WDs, classic cars and general traffic.
This was an enjoyable trip that introduced me to a ‘low tourism’ area that is nevertheless of great interest. The Marne River is beautiful but it is sad to realise the extent of its degradation resulting from water use practices that deprive it of the flows that would otherwise reach the Murray, at least in high rainfall seasons.
There are technical reports available from the former Department for Environment & Water (2019) and Department for Water Resources (2001) for those who like a lot of detail.
A couple of more accessible resources are:
- The Marne River (1999) and
- Marne Valley – Australian Contrasts (2019)
Along the Marne River
1 October 2022With Ian away for a few days, mild spring weather and everything wet and green in the countryside, I decided to do a quick trip along the Marne River from its upper reaches to its mouth at Wongulla on the Murray River. The Marne flows from the Adelaide Hills near Eden Valley through the town of Cambrai and across the plains to the Murray, descending 361 metres over its 70 kilometre length.
Wikipedia says that the Ngarrindjeri people used the Marne Valley as a route into the hills to trade with the Peramangk people in the Barossa Valley and to cut bark canoes from the River Red Gums in the hills. Prior to 1917, it was called the Rhine River South but was renamed after the Marne River in France due to anti-German sentiment during World War I.
An EPA report from 2015 rates the Marne as being in poor condition due to salinity, impact of livestock, water extraction and introduced plants.
My trip was over 2 long days covering 258km and quite a few hills. I am now feeling tired of leg so will write this up briefly and let the photos tell the details.
The first stage of reaching the Marne River was to follow the River Torrens upstream from the eastern suburbs of Adelaide, along the endlessly winding Gorge Road, past Kangaroo Creek Reservoir, the quaintly named Cudlee Creek (believed to be derived from the Kaurna word kadli), Gumeracha and Birdwood to Mount Pleasant.
Near Mount Pleasant there is a parting of the waters. The Torrens rises and flows south and then west to Gulf St Vincent. A little further north the Marne rises and flows east to the River Murray.
After nearly 60 km on bitumen, I turned off on to gravel roads where I remained for most of the way to my destination. These are excellent cycling roads carrying negligible traffic and providing splendid rural scenery.
The farm land of the Southern Mount Lofty Ranges supports sheep and cattle grazing, stud farms – cattle, horses and ponies. The Barossa vineyards are further north. Everything is green after winter rains and in the spring sunshine the views were brilliant.
I passed South Rhine Church on Jutland Road, originally a Presbyterian church, then a Uniting Church until its closure in 2008.
My first sighting of the Marne River was on Moss Smith Road, near Eden Valley, where it is crossed by an old single lane bridge. There was plenty of water, dark brown in colour, flowing strongly and cascading over a large rock. The upper section of the river, from the source to Cambrai, is fairly inaccessible as it flows through farm land before carving a steep sided gorge through the eastern flanks of the Adelaide Hills and emerging on to the plains.
A floodway on Vigars Road, to the west of Eden Valley Road, is the first road intersection with the Marne. It then crosses Matthews Road and Eden Valley Road. After Moss Smith Road it crosses Jutland Road and then it is on its own as it makes its serpentine way through the hills.
I continued along Rhine Park Road, back on Jutland Road and on to Pine Hut Road where a floodway crosses the North Rhine River, a reedy froggy waterway. The North Rhine is a tributary of the Marne and the confluence of these streams is on private land, about 8km due east of Eden Valley.
If you like old dry stone walls, Pine Hut Road is the road for you! It has walls on both sides, continuing for about 4 kilometres, mostly in a good state of preservation. The road climbs, giving extensive views, before flattening off and descending, steeply at first, along a valley leading out of the hills and on to the Murray River plains.
Three Chain Road runs along the edge of the hills, leading to a floodway over the Marne as it emerges from the gorge. Water was flowing here with huge red gums surrounding and smooth rocks in the creekbed. Turning towards Cambrai I passed a turf farm, the first of several, where lawn is grown for those who want instant gardens. I also passed, but did not have time to explore, Meldanda, a Mid Murray Landcare project with bush gardens, campsite, walking trails, recreation facilities and a dark sky observation paddock.
In the town of Cambrai it became clear that the hotel is now closed. Before leaving it had been difficult to establish this as the phone number was still connected, although no-one answered, and the Facebook page provided no details about its closure. It’s a fine old building. We went inside on a visit some years ago and saw a framed local newspaper cutting featuring a young couple from Cambrai in France who were on a world cycling tour and decided to check out the namesake of their hometown.
The Cambrai General Store was closed (no strawberry milk for me) – but the Cambrai Area School provided a shady outdoor lunch area with chairs, tables and a couch. It was the weekend as well as being school holidays so there was nobody there except me. There are toilets at the Cambrai Institute and phone charging can be topped up here as there is a power point.
Heading south on Ridley Road, there is another bridge over the Marne from which the old red railway bridge is visible close to the road. Wikipedia tells us:
A branch from the South Line between the Mount Lofty Ranges and Murray River was built to Monarto and Cambrai in 1886. It was shortened to Apamurra near Palmer before being converted then closed briefly due to the standardisation of the Adelaide – Melbourne line in 1995. The line was then converted to standard gauge later in 1995 until it then closed again in 2005.
I took Redbank Road which runs beside the river, then joins Black Hill Road which follows the Marne to Murraylands Road. But the river is dry a short distance east of the Ridley Road bridge – not even a pool of water remains. It appears that water has not flowed beyond Cambrai for some time. The river bed is lined with large red gums and there are more turf farms, olive orchards, a fruit tree nursery and many small holdings along this road. Roadside letterboxes are an interesting feature of each property as Australia Post provides a delivery service to the area.
The river takes a bend through the Marne Valley Conservation Park, adjacent to Black Hill Road – I did not have time to explore this.
The small settlement of Black Hill comprises a few houses and an old church. Black Hill Road is bitumen up to this point, then gravel once again. There is a hill to climb before reaching Murraylands Road. The Marne becomes wider here with dense reed beds as it winds through limestone hills towards the Murray.
At the turnoff from Murraylands Road there is a signpost to Marne Mouth – from here it is another 7 km to Wongulla. The cliffs of the Murray come into view along Peters Road and there is, at last, a downhill roll to the river. Wongulla is a holiday house settlement with a boat ramp and few other public facilities. This final section of the Marne is really an estuary, fed by water from the Murray. My camping place for the night was at Wongulla Campground, a small conservation area managed by a local progress association, with camp sites but no facilities apart from rubbish bins.
My campsite was right beside the river – about the only spot available. All the other sites were occupied. Campers appear to be complying with the appeals of the progress association to keep the place clean and use the toilets at the boat ramp about 1.5km away. As there was no potable water available, I requested some from a man who was sitting outside his holiday house. He gave me chilled rainwater. There was just enough daylight left for me to pitch my tent and make my dinner and a cup of tea.
Redhill to Port Pirie
24 July 2022It was cold in Redhill. The football clubrooms had a big post-footy night, trains thundered past several times and the highway traffic could be heard as well. Out tent is truly on its last legs with a rip in the fly and waterproofing peeling off everywhere.
The Broughton River, just across the road, looked beautiful with deep waterholes reflecting the morning light.
We breakfasted at the roadhouse which is set amongst trees, is very clean and provides a mediocre meal. The proprietor told us that it is the only privately run roadhouse on the Princes Highway, all the others owned by big companies. He has been there for 25 years and is going to sell up soon. He also reckoned that if the hotel had put on more karaoke nights, they would probably still be in business.
We headed out of Redhill on a dirt track, then took a gravel road alongside the railway line to Merriton, a tiny locale beside the highway with an old iron bridge over the river.
From Merriton, we took a zigzag route across the plains, through increasingly marginal agricultural land. We had two more river crossings. At the Wandearah Road bridge we saw the last waterholes, and further on, crossed Butler Bridge which is under reconstruction and impassable by motor vehicles. There was no water in the river here.
The ride across the plains seemed long with lots of endless straight stretches of road through cultivated paddocks and eventually saltbush and samphire flats. At last we arrived at the Port Davis jetty where the Broughton River has formed into a wide estuary lined with mangroves. The point at which it reaches Spencer Gulf is only accessible by boat. There were three blokes fishing, hoping to catch some whiting. We made a cup of tea and ate our lunch perched on some rocks in a muddy samphire bog that would be inundated at high tide.
We then rode 22km to Port Pirie with the lead smelter stack a prominent landmark and the ranges forming a dramatic backdrop on the horizon.
We are staying in the International Hotel (classic old pub) in a huge room opening on to a balcony from which we have a close-up view of the lead smelter and rail yards, with Port Pirie Creek and Southern Flinders Ranges beyond. The balcony has seen better days and currently shows plenty of evidence of pigeon occupation. Port Pirie’s historic buildings have some good facades and it is possibly the only town to have a Church of Fish & Chips.
Over this trip we crossed the Broughton River 8 times, the first 3 via fords and then five by bridge. We were not always able to follow it closely, but for much of the way it was in sight as a line of trees winding across the land.
Tomorrow we will take the bus back to Adelaide.
Spalding to Redhill
23 July 2022We breakfasted in the local park, then hit the Goyder Highway, heading upstream to the Broughton River headwaters, 12 km south of Spalding. The 5 arch railway bridge (not in use) is a splendid feature a few km outside the town.
From Yakkilo Waterhole we backtracked along some quiet gravel roads and met the river again near its confluence with the Hill River. Water was flowing here.
The Broughton Valley Road follows the river along a wide reedy section that has some lovely deep swimming holes – but no swimming today.
On Euromina Road my map study paid off as I was easily able to identify our unofficial shortcut that took us a couple of kilometres up an indistinct dirt track to join the Broughton Hills Road, a rough road unsuited to vehicles. It is in a spectacular location on a high ridge with expansive views in all directions – wind turbines to the north east and The Bluff in the far distance to the north west.
Then there was a long steep descent to a serpentine section of the river as it winds through steep-sided hills, forming a huge natural amphitheatre and gorge. At the bottom water was flowing across the ford so our shoes came off and we wheeled and carried the bikes over.
Another short climb brought us out of the hills and out on to the plains. We followed Pipeline Road where we crossed the river again via a ford with a steep drop and short sharp climb out. Andrews Road then brought us to the small town of Yacka that has a stylish institute building and a craft shop which had a banner advertising drinks, snacks and sweets. This was Fake News – it only had craft and 2nd hand books. We had lunch in Yackamoorundie Park beside the Broughton River, which has picnic tables, water and a camping area with showers and toilets (key available from local resident). From the bridge we spotted a large fish in the clear water below. The Broughton River is stocked with trout, but our fish knowledge is poor and we didn’t know what it was.
Next stop was White Cliffs Reserve, a camping and recreation area beside the river. There are more good swimming holes here. A little further along we came to the small town of Koolunga, now bereft of its pub which closed in December. It has some fine sandstone houses and cottages, a church and institute hall. A local gentleman, who began a conversation with Ian, told him that the publican couldn’t get along with people. Too bad!
We then took River Road to Redhill along the Broughton River, visible as a line of trees, meandering near and not so near. Redhill – known for its roadhouse on the highway – is actually a rather charming if quiet town. Sadly the magnificent Eureka Hotel is no longer open for business so we are in the leaky tent tonight – fortunately no rain is expected.
Map #1 – Spalding to shortcut (Google maps doesn’t allow the shortcut)
Map #2 – Broughton Hills Road to Redhill
Broughton River ride
22 July 2022Another ride along another river – it’s becoming a habit.
The Broughton River rises in Ngadjuri land at Yakkilo waterhole (also spelt Yakilo or Yakkalo), the confluence of Hill River and Yakkilo Creek, about 11km south of the town of Spalding. It flows north towards Spalding, then turns west to wind through the Yackamoorundie Range. It continues across the plains, through the towns of Yacka, Koolunga and Redhill, and then heads north west to its mouth at Port Davis in Nukunu country, about 20km south west of Port Pirie. The river is 110km long and descends just under 300m from source to sea.
It was named by the explorer, Edward John Eyre, after Englishman, William Broughton, the first Bishop of Australia of the Church of England. It is a little difficult to understand why Broughton deserves this recognition as it appears that most of his time spent in Australia (1828-1852) was in NSW and he possibly never came to South Australia.
The River Management Plan for the Broughton Catchment (2004) says: ‘Watercourse condition varies considerably between different reaches, from near natural to degraded condition’ and ‘in terms of the fish ecology, the river system is in a fair to poor condition’. Nearly 20 years on, these statements probably still apply.
As unqualified ecologists we will cast our eyes on the current situation over a 2 day ride following the river as closely as possible, through this fairly sparsely settled region of South Australia’s Mid North. A bus has taken us from Adelaide to Spalding. After reaching Port Davis we will continue to Port Pirie for the bus ride home.
Balaklava to Port Wakefield
13 May 2022
We patronised Kiplings Bakery, squeezed between two massive petrol stations, then went to catch our bus home.
Huppatz Hut to Balaklava
12 May 2022
Wakefield River ride #2
11 May 2022The Wakefield River is an ephemeral river on Kaurna land that flows 116 km from its source near Black Springs to a mangrove estuary at Port Wakefield. Its tributaries are Pine Creek, Woolshed Flat Creek and Skillogalee Creek. Its Kaurna name is Undalya meaning water holes.
It was named after Edward Gibbon Wakefield, an English man of mixed reputation who, apart from a river and a town, also has a City of Adelaide street and an electorate named after him. He was a relentless colonialist, remembered for his attempts to implement his colonial theories in South Australia, New Zealand and Canada.
I found out the above from that essential resource, Wikipedia, in preparation for a second trip along this river, the first having ended in a freezing muddy bailout during a cold snap in November 2021.
Ian and I took the bus, with bikes in the trailer, from Adelaide to Farrell Flat, and were set down in the dark by the roadside in a patch of horrid weeds with seeds that stuck fast to our shoes laces and socks. We attached our lights and rode about 16km on gravel roads and dirt tracks to Huppatz Hut, a walkers hut on the Heysen Trail. Night riding, enjoyable as it may be, gives you an added appreciation of arrival at your place of shelter.
It was unoccupied by other humans but a rodent or 2 were in residence. We got a fire going and heated up our chicken curry and rice brought from home, then stowed our food supplies carefully before going to bed.
Winter has returned!
11 November 2021Last night was cold and relentlessly wild with a gale blowing that shook the hut many times. Fortunately it withstood the onslaught. Although the BOM had forecast rain for today, it stated that this was likely to arrive in the afternoon. WRONG! It had already started well before dawn so the day’s prospects were diminished from the start.
I left Huppatz Hut at 6.30am in drizzle with heavily overcast skies. The landscape looked quite beautiful with muted colours of green, grey and yellow, hilly skyline and the Waterloo wind farm on the horizon.
As it was November – ie nearly summer – I had not brought my gloves, assuming they would not be needed. WRONG! I improvised by putting my black cotton socks over my hands but they quickly got soaked. Cotton has a high chill factor so my hands got frozen. I took off the socks and put on the only other items available – thin rubber gloves from my repair kit, included for the avoidance of grease on hands when doing repairs. These were better than nothing.
My planned route was on gravel roads. All went well as far as Black Springs. Here a small settlement remains despite the closure of the church in 2016 (it went through 3 denominations – Methodist, Anglican and Lutheran) and the community hall. Departing in a southerly direction, I received my first warning : gravel roads are sometimes dirt roads and when it rains they turn into mud. I beat a quick retreat when mud began to stick and took another road to the Barrier Highway. This meant abandoning the chance of seeing the absolute headwaters of the Wakefield River.
A short distance south along the highway, the road crosses the river, already formed into a distinct reedy waterway. There is no sign to identify it here. Rainy weather is not conducive to detailed map reading, so I carried on, ignoring any bituminous options, along Holm Hill Road, Dunns Road and Water Reserve Road, heading towards Mintaro.
A promising start then turned rather calamitous. Suddenly I was experiencing the full mud disaster when the road turned to clay that stuck to my tyres and shoes and clogged everything up. By riding on the grassy verges I could dislodge some of the mud and avoid collecting more, so this worked quite well. Further along, I judged it possible to resume riding on the road, but then hit a clay patch at which point 100% clogging-up occurred, the front wheel ceased to turn and I went sprawling. No serious damage but mud coverage of bike and rider was now at a high level.
Mintaro was not far so I decided to push on, but stay on the grass as much as possible. The road followed the Wakefield River quite closely but I confess to having lost interest in it. Eventually the road surface improved enough for normal riding and I reached the gates of Martindale Hall. At this stage I was muddy but not too cold and wet to miss this place of interest. No other visitors were there. The Wakefield River was though – the driveway crosses it on a low level causeway and there’s another floodway on the road to Mintaro.
In Mintaro, the Magpie & Stump Hotel, yet to open for the day, gave me a perfect bicycle cleaning station on a grassy area equipped with a hose and low pressure nozzle. Mud was removed from bike, panniers, my legs and shoes in a short time! That was satisfying but, with wet gear and the rain becoming heavier, I was getting cold. I decided to ditch the Wakefield route and go to Clare.
A climb up and over the hill along Jolly Way led me on to the Riesling Trail and into Clare where I immediately found accommodation (motel room at The Bentleys Hotel), got clean, dry and warm (hot shower followed by 2 hours in bed with the electric blanket on #3) and then visited the op shop to buy socks and a jumper ($6 all up). The temperature here reached 7.5 degrees today – and it’s November! Back to Adelaide on the bus tomorrow morning. This adventure will have a re-run in better weather.
Huppatz Hut
10 November 2021One half of the Bikelele team is on another river jaunt, this time the Wakefield River, source to sea – 2 nights and a day.
I took the 4pm Yorke Peninsula Coaches service from Adelaide, destination Peterborough, and requested a set down at Farrell Flat (7pm), halfway between Clare and Burra. The silo artists have been at it again and covered the silos with a train and a lurid sky. Soon we will be longing to see those pure white ones again and will travel around the countryside seeking them out.
My destination was Huppatz Hut, about 18km from Farrell Flat along gravel roads, across the Barrier Highway and eventually along a dirt track and into a slight gully that hides the hut from view. I rode through ripening grain paddocks as the sun was setting and made it just on dark.
The hut is on the Heysen Trail and is mainly used by through-walkers. The log book indicates fairly frequent recent use but I am the sole occupant tonight. It is wild and windy outside so good to be indoors. There is water, a sink, fireplace, table and chairs, sleeping platforms and a dunny. I have had a delicious dinner of tuna with beans & rice, carrot cake and milky tea!
I will be making a crack-of-dawn start in the morning in order to reach Balaklava before forecast rain arrives tomorrow afternoon.
Bikelele 