Whale wrap

We fought off the cold morning wind by climbing Mount Fortescue.

The path soon led us into rainforest: ferns, moss, lichen, Gondwana-remnant beech trees. This mysterious, shady stretch would be dank and dismal in the all-too-regular rain here but, once again we were fortunate and dodged the rain. In fact, throughout the day the weather threatened to deteriorate but waterproofs were not required and the sun prevailed.

Artistic benches and seats are positioned along the track, designed to reflect themes that educate walkers about topics such as vegetation, geology, history, fauna, oceanography and climate.

King Ian rules the rainforest!

From the top of Mount Fortescue the path led us along the very brink of sea cliffs plummeting hundreds of metres to the sparkling waters of Munro Bight.

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Several precarious lookouts gave us the opportunity to watch for whales and our patience was rewarded with glimpses of whales and dolphins feeding and cavorting in the distance under air-cover from flocks of diving sea birds. Small binoculars are worth carrying.

The first three days of the walk are replete with awesome views of Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar, the Blade and Munro Bight. Approaching Cape Huay new vistas unfurl of Fortescue Bay, Maria Island and serried headlands disappearing into the misty distance.

We abandoned our packs to take the side trip out to Cape Huay. The track plummets on many beautifully crafted free-stone steps to a saddle, up a steep rise, down over a collapsed cliff arch and then up to the track end at the cape. The path is startlingly close to cliffs on several occasions but, mercifully, a fence has been installed at the end, overlooking a chasm to the Candlestick and Totem Pole – famous sea cliff routes for daredevil climbers. The fence allowed walkers with vertigo to enjoy their lunch in relative ease.

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Our tiring legs carried us back to our packs and a relatively easy tramp out to the trailhead and bus at Fortescue Bay. We celebrated the completion of the hike with an icy swim.

That’s it for another mini adventure.

Boardwalk to the brink

Most of today’s walk was an out and return to Cape Pillar so we could leave our (not so) heavy packs at Munro Hut.

We had received a stern briefing the night before NOT to stray from the path that follows closely the very brink of vertiginous sea cliffs.

Despite park management nervousness the track has warning signs but no safety rails or fences. It is to be hoped that (ultimately unsuccessful) death-defying pranksters won’t spoil it for the rest of us.

The weather forecast was ambivalent but the early morning showers did not arise. Rain threatened several times during the day but we copped barely a sprinkle and enjoyed clear, sunlit views.

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As usual we made an early start and followed a gently climbing forest path that soon became a 2-3 km boardwalk protecting the delicate ground and making for easy walking.

Without noticing, we were approaching a precipice – well screened by low but dense banksia and casuarina. Suddenly, we were teetering on the brink. Photos must suffice.

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Spectacular views unfolded including Tasman Island, the Blade, Cape Pillar and Cathedral Rock.

We retraced our steps to Munro Hut, had some lunch, grabbed out packs and walked a couple of hours to Retakunna Hut – the palatial accommodation for our last night on the walk.

An exclamation point for the end of the day occured when our cordon bleu dehydrated meal packet slipped from the cook’s clumsy fingers after it was opened. (Rosalie insists that the record show that SHE was not that cook.) Anti-caking components of this food technologist’s marvel ensured total evacuation onto the fortunately clean floor. Careful retrieval resulted in minimal loss and undetectable contamination.

Darkness settles and rain is now falling. We’re happy to have a roof again tonight.

Arthurs Peak and Munro

We had a clear, cold night at Surveyors Hut. We were cosy in our sleeping bags despite the generous ventilation of the dormitories. There were no snorers within earshot.

Cape Raoul from Surveyors Hut

The cliffs of Cape Raoul lit up as the sun rose above the Tasman Peninsula heralding a fine, sunny day. A fresh breeze stopped us overheating as we climbed the path through bush and moorlands to the modest but vertiginous Arthurs Peak.

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The path undulated along the edge of dizzying cliffs and through a small cloud forest before descending to a boardwalk protecting a wide moor.

Back into forest we took the correct path at a critical juncture and a final hour through a dark and dingy forest saw us safely at Munro Hut.

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Easy walking. Stunning scenery. Luxurious accommodation.